Google
This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project
to make the world's books discoverable online.
It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.
Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the
publisher to a library and finally to you.
Usage guidelines
Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.
We also ask that you:
+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.
+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.
+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.
+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe.
About Google Book Search
Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web
at |http: //books .google .com/I
Xibrari?
of the
innivcreiti^ of Mieconein
Simple Soldering
BOTH
HARD AND SOFT
TOGETHER WITH
DESCRIPTIONS OF INEXPENSIVE HOME-MADE
APPARATUS NECESSARY FOR THIS ART
BY
EDWARD THATCHER
Instructor of Decorative Metal Work
Columbia Uni'versity, Neiv York
FIRST EDITION
NEW YORK
SPON & CHAMBERLAIN, 123 LIBERTY St.
LONDON
E. & F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 Haymarket, S.W.
1914
J
Copyright 191^
BV
SPON & CHAMBfiRLAIN
Nbw York
CAMELOT PRESS, 18-20 Oak Street, New York, U. S. A.
197461
AUG 20 1915 b f 4 7[ ^
3 '^3
• \
PREFACE
In looking through many books on the sub-
ject of soldering and in an almost daily use of
the processes described in the following pages,
it has seemed that something more might be
written of, " how " rather than " why."
The action of metals under heat; the unions
resulting from the melting and amalgamations
or welding properties of certain metallic combi-
nations; the fluxes required to clean and protect
the metals to be joined; the number of degrees
of heat needed, etc. ; are aptly described in other
works.
But the method of securing the desired result
in the simplest possible manner is not often
clear, and to that end this little book is written.'
Edward Thatcher.
New York, 1910.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
Soldering
PAGB
The unitinfir of metals. Soft soldering. The flux.
Hard soldering or brazing i
CHAPTER II
Soft Soldering
Heating the work. Flux for soldering. Soldering
fluid. Simple joints. Soldering a ring. Common
solder. The flame. Heating the joint. Resin.
Small work. Tinning. A handy scraper . . 3
CHAPTER III
Methods of Holding Work
Wiring work. Special holders. Soldering to steel or
iron. Soldering brass castings. A stiff bristle
brush. Tinfoil solder. Plaster-of- Paris resist.
Soldering jewelry. Cooling. Tinning a bowl.
The soldering copper. The charcoal furnace.
Joining ^ sheets of metal. Common sheet tin.
Pure tin solder 15
CHAPTER IV
Hard Soldering or Brazing
Silver solder. Soldering copper. Soldering iron and
steel. Soldering gold. Soldering aluminum. Use
of borax as a flux; Both as a powder; as a
l^aste; and as a liquid. Causes of solder refus-
ing to melt. Action of water and acid on soldered
joints. Protecting soldered joints with rouge.
The secrets of hard soldering. The charcoal
block. The pickle-bath. Brazing 33
CONTENTS
CHAPTER V
Cleaning up Work. Polishing
PAGB
Scraping down. Honing. Finishing. Buff-sticks.
Buff-wheel. Files. Burnishing 52
CHAPTER VI
Standard Apparatus
The blow-pipe. Foot bellows. The gasoline torch.
The alcohol blow-torch. The Bunsen Burner.
The charcoal brazier. Soldering iron furnace . 56
CHAPTER Vn
Home-made Apparatus
A simple Bunsen burner. A simple blow-pipe. A
large blow-pipe. The construction of a pair of
bellows. A soldering box. How to make a very
small soldering iron 63-
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
No. BAGB
1. Butt joint 6
2. Lap joint 6
3. Metal workers scraper 7
4. Soldering ring with bunsen burner .... 9
5. Soft soldering a ring on to a flat surface . . 11
6. Hoe scraper 16
7. 8, 9, 10, II. Spring clamps for holding work . 16
12. Plan for handy holder 17
13. A handy holder for special work 18
14. Soldering on cylinder head 22
15. Spring clipp for holding ball 23
16. Plaster-of-Paris resist 24
17. Ordinary soldering copper 26
18. Soldering two sheets of tin together .... 28
19. Soldering two sheets of tin together (second
method) 29
20. Soldering a watch chain 31
21. Preparing a ring for soldering 36
22. Slate block for mixing borax 37
23. Pair of tweezers 38
24. Hard soldering a ring 40
25. Hard soldering a ring to flat surface . . . .41
26. Charcoal soldering block 47
27. The pickle bath 48
28. Double gasoline soldering torch 49
29. Welding with a charcoal fire 50
30. " Scotch stone " 53
31. Burnisher * 55
32. Blow-pipe 56
33. Blow-pipe showing flame 57
34. Gasoline torch ..,,.,..,,• ^
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
No. PAGB
35. Alcohol blow-torch 59
S6. Charcoal brazier for soldering 60
37. Soldering iron furnace 61
38. Bunsen burner \, c .... 63
39. A simple blow-pipe, detail ,04
40. 41. A simple blow-pipe completed . . , , . 65
42. A large blow-pipe 67
43. Foot bellows, end piece .68
44. 45. Foot bellows, sectional views 69
46. Foot bellows, pattern for leather 71
47. Foot bellows, fastening for leather . . , . 71
48. Foot bellows, protecting band 72
49. Foot rest 73
50. Completed foot bellows 74
51. A soldering box 75
52. Small soldering copper 76
CHAPTER I
Introductory
The Uniting of Metals, by a fused metallic
substance, or metallic cement as the dictionary
has it, is what is known as soldering.
In order that the metals be properly united
with the metallic solder they must be perfectly
clean and free from dirt or oils of any sort, and
so are usually scraped with a knife-like instru-
ment or rubbed bright with emery cloth. To
further clean the metal and render it clear of all
dirt and oxide from the source of heat a " flux "
is used.
The class of work requiring soft solder, and
the class of work to be hard soldered are usually
of quite different types*
Soft Soldering. The metal used for soft sol-
dering is usually a mixture of equal parts of
tin and lead. This has the advantage of requir-
ing a much lower temperature to fuse it than
the metals which it is to unite.
The Flux used for soft soldering is usually
resin or " killed acid," the latter being known as
soldering fluid. The purpose of this flux is
simply to keep the metals clean where soldered
2 SIMPLE SOLDERING
or rather, where they are to be united by the
solder.
Hard Soldering or Brazing. Silver or brass
is used as the uniting metal (brass solder is
known as spelter). This of course makes a
much stronger joint than soft-solder; but the
higher degree of heat needed to melt the silver
or brass solder makes it often useless for jobs
which will not stand a high degree of heat.
Hard Soldering also requires more complicated
apparatus to attain the required amount of heat.
The Flux used for Hard Soldering and Braz-
ing is usually borax dry or in the form of a paste.
Muriatic acid is also used for special kinds of
work.
Both processes have come to be used for cer-
tain things well suited to the conditions of their
several merits, and the matter on the following
pages is intended to make this clear.
CHAPTER II
Soft Soldering
Soft Soldering is generally known as some-
thing that is accomplished with a soldering iron
or copper, which is a piece of copper weighing
from a few ounces to several pounds firmly
attached to an iron rod having a handle. It is
usually heated in a charcoal or gas furnace until
it will melt soft solder and then removed and
placed in contact with the joint to be soldered.
Thus heating up the metals to be united as well
as the solder on the spot where the solder should
" run " or flow and adhere.
This method has its advantages, but I think
many amateurs try to make joints by this
method greatly to their detriment instead of
resorting to direct heating with the flame which
will be described first.
Heating the Work. No matter how the heat
is conveyed to the joint it must be remembered
that both pieces to be soldered must be heated
equally or else the piece which receives the most
heat, usually the smaller, will absorb all the sol-
der. It is a safe rule to always heat the larger
piece first, allowing the smaller pieces to receive
3
4 SIMPLE SOLDERING
their heat from the larger ones. Both metals
to be joined must be heated to the melting
point of the solder.
Flux for Soldering. Before we can make a
perfect joint we must have a proper flux. For
many purposes resin is used, but soldering fluid
serves almost wholly for all small work except
electrical connections. For electrical work a
special soldering stick is made from resinous
compounds. This may be purchased at any
electrical supply house. Resin may be had of
the hardware merchant. But the cleanliness of
soldering fluid makes it advisable for general
use. In electrical work some engineers main-
tain that the acid corrodes the metals, others
say it does not; many use' it, but the soldering
stick is generally used. When making experi-
mental models in metals, attaching pins to jew-
elry and all such work use the soldering fluid
which may be purchased ready made, or can be
prepared in the following simple manner.
Soldering Fluid. Use an open mouth pint
fruit-jar and pour in about half a pint of chem-
ically pure muriatic acid. Then get some pure
zinc. Battery zincs are best because pure. The
zinc used under stoves, and about the shop is
not pure. Use only the purest zinc there is to
be had. The battery zinc is easiest to obtain;
if this is in sheets cut it into small strips about
SOFT SOLDERING . 5
%6 i^ch wide and 2 inches in length or in
any way so the acid may rapidly attack it. If
the zinc is in bars a coarse wood rasp is useful
to reduce it to small bits or filings.
Put a small handful of the zinc clippings or
filings into the jar of muriatic acid. This should
start immediately to attack, and eat up the zinc,
and a continuous bubbling action sets up. This
operation should be carried on out of doors as
the fumes from it are. very injurious and dis-
agreeable. After a while, say fifteen minutes,
put in another handful of clippings and continue
to add more at short intervals until the bubbling
action ceases entirely when new zinc is intro-
duced into the solution. The acid is now
" killed " or saturated with the zinc.
It is a good plan to let it stand over night
and carefully strain oflF in the morning so as to
get a clear solution, throwing away the residue.
If necessary it may be used immediately after
the bubbling action ceases, but it is much better
to let it settle.
We now have a good soldering solution or
flux fbr general soft soldering. It should be
kept tightly covered by the screw top on the jar
or by laying a piece of flat glass over the jar
to exclude air. It is a good plan to use a small
bottle with a ground-glass stopper. If the solu-
tion evaporates and gets " strong " it becomes
rather useless as it " gums " the work when
heated.
SIMPLE SOLDERING
Simple Joints, most commonly used are the
" butt " joint and the " lap " joint.
The "Butt" Joint, Fig. i, is made where the
two ends of the metal meet squarely and where
no great strength is required.
Fig. I.
The " Lap " Joint is used where strength is
required and is made by filing the ends down to
a sharp bevel so that they lap over each other
as in Fig. 2. This gives more surface to be
soldered and consequently greater strength.
Fig. 2.
Any work which is to be bent or hammered
should be made with lap joints as soft solder
will not stand a' strong blow or strain. For
such work, however, hard soldering is the best.
In these problems the use of a soldering
SOFT SOLDERING 7
copper IS purposely avoided as much as possible
the flame being principally used.
After scraping a joint bright do not handle
it with the fingers any more than may be nec-
essary; no matter how clean they are even the
natural oils of the body, to say nothing of the
dirt accumulated in working metals, interferes
with the making of a good joint.
Fig. 3.
Soldering A Ring. Take a strip of sheet
brass %e inch thick, by 3 inches long and f inch
in width. First carefully shape up your ring
so that the ends meet squarely, " butt together."
They should be filed true, and be perfectly clean
and bright. Do not depend upon solder to fill
up gaps and make your joints meet. A little
film of solder is stronger than a lot of it.
Scrape the brass around the joint for about a
i inch on each side ; also scrape the sides. This
may be done with an old knife, file or a trian-
gular instrument of steel set in a wooden handle
used by metal-workers called a scraper. Fig. 3.
The ring of brass expands when heated and
tends to pull the joint apart. This should be
prevented by tying the ring together with iron
wire, usually soft iron wire about No. 27, tied
8 SIMPLE SOLDERING
around the ring as illustrated in Fig. 4. and not
across it. This wire should be twisted tightly to-
gether with a pair of pincers. It will then ef-
fectually hold the joint- together. Leave enough
end to the wire to hold the ring by.
Take a brush and moisten the joint thoroughly
with the fluid but take care that it is wet only
about and between it. Cut oflf three or four
pieces about -J inch square from a narrow
strip of solder (jewelers' solder) and place them
in the joint with a pair of tweezers.
The solder should first be scraped bright and
then plentifully moistened with the fluid after
it is laid on the joint. The ring is now ready
for heating.
Common Solder comes in bars about 14 inches
in length and i inch square. This form is not
handy for direct heating and should be melted
up into long narrow strips or small pellets.
Wire solder. or "jewelers' solder" is easy to ob-
tain almost anywhere ; strips of it are easily made
by pouring molten solder from an iron ladle into
narrow grooves cut in a board with a small
gouge.
The Simplest Way to melt and flow the solder
is to suspend the ring over a bunsen burner
flame, Fig. 4. If that is not to be had, a common
gas stove, gasoline torch, Fig. 34, or even a
charcoal fire may be used.
10 SIMPLE SOLDERING
The Flame should be applied underneath, not
above and in contact with the bits of solder.
Swing the ring or flame slightly from side to
side and so heat both sides evenly. The solder
should melt and flow after very little heating.
By no means allow the work to become red-hot;
it does not require a red heat to melt the solder.
Such a temperatui-e will not only oxidize the lead
and tin in the soft solder to a brittle useless
compound, but will eat holes deep into the work
and cause no end of trouble. If this happens
the whole process should be gone over again,
the work rescraped, covered with fluid and new
solder used. Even this is not always satisfac-
tory and an entirely new piece of work may have
to be produced.
When Heating the Joint if the solder does
not melt in what your experience leads you to be-
lieve is a sufficient time, put some fresh solder-
ing fluid on the hot joint. This may clean and
release the solder which is sometimes prevented
from melting by a film of oxide or dirt. You
may also dip the end of a long strip of solder
into the fluid and touch the hot metal at the
joint, so that some of the strip of solder will
melt and join the metal.
Sometimes the ring has to be cooled and freshly
scraped if the solder does not behave properly,
even if fresh fluid and solder have been applied.
SOFT SOLDERING II
A few drops of water will cool the ring or it
may be immersed slowly in water.
If the wire is taken off too soon before the
solder has cooled and " set," the joint may
spring apart. When this happens for any rea-
son the fact that both ends of the ring are
probably coated with solder makes it possible
to simply bind together again, wet with fluid
and reheat.
Resin. If resin or soldering stick is to be
used, clean and bind the ring together as before,
Fig. 5-
heat slightly and apply the resin or stick to the
joint, so that it is covered with melted resin as
if with fluid. Apply the solder which also
should be covered with melted resin and heat
the work till the solder flows on. Scrape away
the surplus resin afterwards. Some shops use
for fluid, resin dissolved in alcohol. This makes
a good flux.
12 SIMPLE SOLDERING
In case it is required to solder the ring flat on
its side to a sheet of flat brass or copper, scrape
the edge of the ring and that part of the plate
on which it rests. See that the ring lies flat
on the plate and then bind it in place tightly
with iron wire passing about both pieces. See
Fig. 5. It is best to leave the old wire wrapped
around the ring so that it will not pull apart in
reheating. Moisten the new joint thoroughly
with fluid and put a number of small pieces of
solder on the inside of the, ring about f of an
inch apart as shown in the illustration. Care
should be taken that the parts to be soldered be
clean and then well moistened with soldering
fluid.
This job can be best heated with the flame
underneath the flat plate until the solder melts
when it will be seen to run along the joint and
completely encircle the ring. Be careful not to
overheat it. If heated from underneath hardly
any trouble will be experienced.
A simple way to handle such work is to rest
it on an old bread toaster and play on the under-
side of it with a flame, or rest the whole piece
of work on a live bed of charcoal until the solder
melts.
However, if heated from the top, the flame
must be kept from touching the solder itself as
experience will show. Heat the larger piece
first always and allow the smaller to absorb
the heat from the larger pieces. If other parts
SOFT SOLDERING I3
are also to be attached it must be borne in mind
that since in order to solder them the whole
plate has to be heated to the melting point of the
solder, the former soldered work must be con-
fined with wire or clamps or it will slide out of
place and spoil the whole work. It may always
be pushed back into place, however, if the solder
is molten, but this leaves much solder where it
is not wanted and is to be avoided as a " botch."
Small Work such as pins, nuts, screws, etc.
may be soldered on with the soldering copper
as it confines the heat to the place where it is
most needed. But again remember that both
pieces must; be heated equally, that is, the part
of the larger work which receives the smaller
piece and the smaller piece itself. Sometimes
both pieces to be joined are thoroughly scraped
and a piece of pure tinfoil placed between the
well moistened pieces and heat applied. This
effects a perfect joint.
Tinning. In attaching small pieces it is best
to " tin " them by first cleaning, then moistening
with fluid and melting a film of solder over the
surface to be joined. This is easily done by
placing bits of solder on the surface and apply-
ing the heat. A stick or wire brush will help
spread the solder while molten provided the
stick or brush be first dipped into the soldering
fluid.
14 SIMPLE SOLDERING
Supposing the work has been soldered and
in order to make a neat job it is desired to scrape
away the extra solder. This may be done by
using the scraper for most of it, taking care,
however, not to dig into anything but the sol-
der so as not to fill the work itself with ugly
scratches.
A Handy Scraper is shown in Fig. 6. It is
simply used as a hoe to pull the solder away.
CHAPTER III
Methods of Holding Work
Some work may not be conveniently wired
together and so it is a good idea to make some
small spring clamps from heavy iron wire.
They are very useful.
To make one, take a piece of i inch round
iron wire about 4 inches long and flatten both
ends on an anvil with a hammer as in Fig. 7.
Then bend the ends together in an elongated
form like Fig. 8. Squeeze the ends together in
a vice to give them a spring and so hold to-
gether whatever work you may have. That is
so the clamp will hold it tightly of itself. Fig. 9.
Supposing you have a brass ball to solder to
a plate of copper. It would be impossible to
safely wire the ball in place. A special clamp
must be made for such work, pne end is flat-
ened while the other is twisted around into an
eye, Fig. 10. The eye will hold the ball safely
in place as in Fig. 11.
Having previously scraped tKe ball and plate,
proceed to solder as before. ;i
If any sort of accurate -work is demanded,
time will be saved by making these simple little
devices. This last job should be heated under-
neath.
15
HOE SCRAPER
Fig. 6
Fig- 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
METHODS OF HOLDING WORK
17
Perhaps it is required to solder a brass gear
wheel or disk on to a steel shaft or rod with
soft solder. Let us take for an example a case
where the brass disk is made of flat metal,
Fig. 12.
rather thin, say %e inch, and is bored to fit the
shaft or rod snugly.
The best way to make a thoroughly good job
and to insure having the disk square with the
shaft, is to make an iron holder.
The Holder is made by taking a square of
sheet iron (Fig. 12.) the required size; first punch
l8 SIMPLE SOLDERING
a round hole in the center into which the rod
should fit snugly. Then cut eight slits in the
sheet as shown by the dotted lines in the sketch.
Bend up the pieces l. 2. 3. 4. high enough to
make a firm support for the disk, Fig. 13. By
Fig. 13.
using a small square you can then set the disk
at right angles to the rod at the place where
previously marked. The corners 5. 6. 7. 8. form
legs for the holder.
First slip the disk on to the rod and mark,
METHODS OF HOLDING WORK IQ
with a sharp steel point, exactly the position
where it is to go. Remove the brass disk and
brighten the rod with emery cloth at the spot
where the joint is to be made. Also scrape
about the hole in the disk. Before slipping the
disk on the rod, thoroughly moisten the rod at
joint with fluid, so that when the disk is in place
the fluid is between and about the joint.
Lay a few pieces of solder about the joint and
heat slowly, taking care to heat the steel rod
as much as the disk and using all precautions.
A neat strong joint should be the result.
The holder takes very little time to make and
is well worth while, because having the rod up-
right gives the solder a chance to form a collar
about the joint which it would not do as well if
the rod were horizontal at the time of heating.
To Solder to Steel or Iron the acid is always
used because the resin does not work satisfac-
torily. If any difficulty is experienced in making
the solder stick to the shaft or rod, this might
be tinned first, that is, coated over with solder
where the joint is to^be made. This is done be-
fore the disk is slipped on, by moistening the
rod with fluid (some use pure muriatic acid)
heating it and then touching the rod at the joint
with a stick of solder wet with the fluid. As
soon as the proper degree of heat has been
reached the solder should flow on to the rod and
stick only at the place which has been moistened
20 SIMPLE SOLDERING
with the fluid. Care must be taken to remove the
flame from the rod when applying the solder
or else the flame will melt the solder away be-
fore it reaches the rod. If the solder does not
stick well moisten the rod afresh with a fluid-
charged brush and brush the hot solder about
until that part of the rod is thoroughly " tinned."
If the disk to be attached is of galvanised iron
pure muriatic acid will prove best as a flux.
But the ordinary soldering fluid described will
be found satisfactory in most cases.
Soldering Brass Castings. Sometimes it is
desired to solder a rather heavy brass casting
fast to a sheet of brass or copper, for instance a
pipe connection to a tank or some other similar
work.
For example take a brass cylinder casting.
This we desire to close up at one end by a thin
sheet of copper. The heavy casting should be
first thoroughly scraped at the place where it is
desired to attach the copper sheet. Then moisten
the joint thoroughly with fluid and stand the
casting up so that the joint is on top and as
level as possible. The work should rest on an
asbestos mat or old brick, so that when heated
the heat will be retained as long as possible.
Asbestos and brick are poor heat conductors.
Heat the cylinder carefully and avoid playing
the flame on soldering fluid until the solder melts
and runs easily over the end, tinning it thor-
METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 21
oughly. The flow of the solder may be helped
with a brush charged with fluid.
A Stiff Bristle Brush may safely be used and
it might be well to add that it should be care-
fully washed after wetting with acid, as the acid
will eat away the brass or tin bristle holder.
Let the cylinder cool down until the solder
freezes or "sets." Then having previously
scraped the plate to which the cylinder is to be
attached, moisten it and the tinned end of the
casting with the fluid, and turn the tinned face
of the cylinder down on the plate to be soldered.
Apply the heat to the heavy casting as illus-
trated in Fig. 14, and not to the plate. The
copper plate will absorb enough heat from the
casting. The flame should be played around so
as to heat the work evenly. When sufficiently
heated it will be found to have sweated fast
so that very little solder shows.
Tin Foil Solder. A sheet of tin foil well
charged with fluid placed between two parts to
be joined then heated makes a very snug joint,
but the first method is recommended for begin-
ners.
It must be remembered that if a closed cylin-
der is to be made by soldering flat pieces over
each end so as to make it air tight that heating
it sufficiently to make the solder flow will also
cause the moisture and air inside to expand and
22 SIMPLE SOLDERING
exert considerable pressure so that a small hole
should be drilled somewhere to let this air out
and avoid the possibility of holes being blown
through the molten solder. The hole may be
easily plugged up afterwards.
This is particularly the case if a small metal
ball is to be made from two pieces. One piece
Fio. 14.
should be made larger than the other so as to
form a ledge or gutter to hold the bits of solder
and a hole drilled through one of the pieces.
The whole job must fee held together by a clamp
made with an eye at each end. Fig. 15. If the
ball is to be screwed or riveted on to other work
METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 27,
it may be so£t soldered, but it makes a much
better job to hard solder it. This operation will
be described later. If it is to be soft soldered to
something else, it will be difiScult to hold the
two halves of the ball together while soldering
■ after having filed the ledge away. However,
it may be done with care.
Plast«r-of-Paris Resist. If it is desired to soft
solder a number of pieces together and there is
no way to hold them firmly in place while addi-
tions are made, plaster-of-paris should be mixed
to a stiff paste with water, using a large propor-
tion of plaster. This makes a good " resist "
and should be built up about the all-ready sol-
dered parts so as to hold them firmly in position
(Fig. i6). Then we may proceed to solder the
others in place, since the plaster will quickly set
under the heat. But such work is best when hard
soldered if it does not have a plating or coloring
that would disappear in the hotter fire necessary
for hard soldering.
One of the great advantages of soft solder
is the lower degree of heat required to make a
24 SIMPLE SOLDERING
joiat with it. In hard soldering the degree of
heat required to melt the silver or brass solder
often warps thin metals out of shape or takes the
temper out of steel, so that its use is confined to
special work.
For instance a jeweler in soldering a pin shank
on to a scarf pin proper uses soft solder be-
cause it is often much handier after the stone
is in place.
Stones or Gems used in decorative work will
not stand heating successfully beyond the melt-
ing point of soft solder. The pin shanks are
made of german silver usually because of the
hard springy quality of that metal. A red heat
is necessary to hard solder and that would take
away this springy quality by annealing the pins.
It is frequently necessary for the jeweler to at-
tach new pins to delicate settings perhaps con-
taining very valuable stones which it is not
desirable to remove. In tljat case soft solder is
METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 2$
used to fill the small cup which is attached to
the pin. The jeweler accomplishes this by tak-
ing the pin in his pincers and holding the cup
which has been well moistened inside with fluid
over a small flame and touching it almost in-
stantly with a small bar of solder which melts
into the cup. This is allowed to cool, then re-
charged with soldering fluid laid on the setting
while a small pin point flame is directed on to
the back of the cup when the two metals quickly
become attached. This is allowed to cool care-
fully and slowly as water would probably spoil
the stone by chilling it too quickly.
Cooling. ' Small jobs which it is necessary to
cool in a certain supported position may be very
easily cooled with water squirted from a foun-
tain pen filler.
Tinning A Bowl. It is often desirable to tin a
copper or brass bowl, that is to line it with tin.
Having previously made the inside bright with
emery cloth, it is an easy matter to swab the
soldering solution about with a swab made of
oakum bound fast to a stick. Heat the bowl
gently over a charcoal fire or gas flame and melt
in it some pure block tin. Paint the whole in-
side with the melted tin, using the same oakum
swab, and throw away the surplus. Care should
be taken not to get the bowl too hot.
These problems ought to give an idea of the
26 SIMPLE SOLDERING
simple ways of applying soft solder to a large
variety of work and an idea of what can be
accomplished without the aid of the soldering
copper which is so often associated with soft
soldering.
The Soldering Copper has its own particular
uses and in some trades, such as the tinners and
the plumbers, a very large percentage of the
soldered work is done in this way. The sol-
dering copper (Fig. 17) consists of a piece of
Fig. 17.
copper firmly held in an iron handle which has
a wooden hand grip at its other end. This is
usually heated in a small charcoal furnace or
gas flame.
The Charcoal Furnace may be easily carried
about from place to place and is used for outdoor
work. (Fig. 37). The copper should never be
heated in a common coal fire, say in the kitchen
range, as an amateur is apt to do. A common
wood fire is a very good substitute. The coal-
fire spoils the working or tinned end of the cop-
per by the actions of the sulphur in the fire.
It is easy to make a small copper weighing
only a few ounces (see directions in Chapter
METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 2/
VII). But unless the amateur has more than
his usual facilities for casting, forging, etc., he
had much better buy a large one weighing from
a pound and a half to two pounds for general
use.
It will probably need to be filed to a flat wedge-
shaped point (Fig. 17) and a coarse file is best for
this work. If very blunt do not try to beat the
copper red hot and forge it into shape over an
anvil as you have seen a blacksmith forge iron.
It will probably break oflf in chunks. The way
to forge copper is to heat it red hot and then
quench it in cold water which softens it, then
hammer while cold. After a bit it will harden
up and want to be re-softened again, so repeat
the heating and cooling as often as necessary.
Since the copper carries the molten solder on
its point to the work this part must first be
" tinned," covered with tin or solder. An easy
way to accomplish this is after having previously
cleaned and heated the copper so it will melt
solder easily to place some powdered resin on
an old sheet of scrap tin, rub hot copper back
and forth on each of its faces until the point is
covered with a good coat of tin for at least f
inch. Having done this, care must be taken
not to get the iron too hot or it will destroy
the tinning on the end. It should never be al-
lowed to become red-hot, but only hot enough to
melt the solder at the instant of contact. It is a
good plan to have an old dampened piece of rag
28
SIMPLE SOLDERING
to wipe the point of the iron on as it comes
from the fire. Some prefer to use an old brick
for this or a sandy floor but the rag does very
well. If no scrap tin is about, the iron may be
easily tinned by first applying soldering fluid,
then solder, having the iron of course hot.
Joining Sheets of Metal. One of the most use-
ful things to know is how to solder two ends of
Fig. i8.
sheet tin or brass together. Soft solder has not
great strength and it is the usual practice to
fold the metal into a seam that only requires
the solder to hold it in place, and make it water
tight. To solder the joint is very simple.
First scrape the joint bright and then melt
resin along the joint or run soldering fluid
along it. For a short seam, enough solder may
be picked up on the point of the copper once it
METHODS OF HOLDING WORK
29
is hot enough and conveyed to the joint. But
for larger seams the solder is held alongside
(Fig. 18) or on top of the pointed end so that it
melts and runs along the seam with the hot cop-
per (Fig. 19). In this way the solder is fairly
melted in the job. Small pellets of solder may
be put along the seam and melted on by drawing
Fig. 19.
the copper along it. Keep the copper hot, if a
large piece of work is to be done.
Do not put the solder on when it is in a
" slushy " condition or does not run freely from
lack of heat in the iron and it looks grey in-
stead of bright like quicksilver.
The advantage of the copper is that it places
the heat just where it is needed and except at
point of contact does not greatly heat up the rest
of the work. It is of special value for joining
pieces of sheet tin together.''
JO SIMPLE SOLDERING
Common Sheet Tin is a thin plate of rheet
iron coated on both sides with block tin.
In all thin sheet metal work the copper is
generally used, since the direct heating would
warp and discolor it. The metal often covers
wood and it would be impossible for many rea-
sons to use anything save the copper. It should
be remembered that the work must be perfectly
clean and freshly scraped to do good soldering.
It is sometimes desirable for the jeweler to
attach a chain to a locket, with one connecting
link, and the locket is perhaps made of plated
ware or has a jewel in it that will not stand the
heat. The connecting link then has to be neatly
soft soldered.
With such a small link it is only practical to do
the job with a light jeweler's soldering copper.
The link must be first scraped clean about the
joint and then held up in some such manner that
it is easy to get at.
For ordinary work an old mechanical draw-
ing pen makes a most excellent device. This
may be held firmly in the vise by the handle
and the jaws opened .a bit by the thumb screw
to take in the link. This will allow the locket
to hang down on one side and the chain down,
on the other so both are out of the way as in Fig.
20. All that remains to be done is to have the
copper well tinned and heated and the joint
thoroughly moistened with fluid. Pick up a
small drop of solder and touch the joint
32 SIMPLE SOLDERING
with it. Hold the iron there a second as the
link must be thoroughly heated to make the sol-
der entirely fill the joint. With too little heat
it is apt to stick on the top side and leave the
actual gap open. The residue may be scraped
away and the joint plated to match the metal
of the chain.
Some artisans use pure tin for this instead of
solder as the tin is a whiter color. However,
tin does not solder so easily. The flame may be
used in connection with the copper, heating the
larger parts to the melting point of the solder
and the smaller ones with the iron. Never try
to solder a small wire to a heavy casting without
first heating the casting. A short piece of copper
wire set in pincers or a wooden handle may be
used to place the solder into tiny corners where
it would not otherwise go. The wire of course
being hot.
There are many shapes of coppers. A glance
into any good tool dealer's catalog will show the
different forms devised for special work. The
common type will do for most all work however.
For those who can afford it there is on the
market an electric soldering iron that maintains
a constant heat of the right degree and this is
indeed a great convenience. But by fixing the
principles of the art of soldering firmly in ones
mind and experimenting and by not being afraid
to make a mistake the most ordinary apparatus
may be successfully used.
CHAPTER IV
Hard Soldering or Brazing
Some forms of hard and soft soldering are
carried out by exactly the same manner of oper-
ation, the only difference being in the solder,
the flux, and the degrees of heat required.
Hard Soldering requires a much greater tem-
perature since silver or brass are generally used
as solder and borax in some form as a flux. A
much stronger flame is needed ; that of a current
of gas and air under pressure being preferred, or
a gasoline or alcohol torch. In large heavy work
the blacksmith's forge, a charcoal fire or a speci-
ally heavy blast of gas or gasoline is used. As
in soft soldering the work must be thoroughly
cleaned and scraped bright first.
The Silver Soldet is not pure silver, the
common form being made up of f silver and J
brass, cast into a flat ingot and rolled out to a
thin sheet about ^/^^ inch thick. This is best
obtained from some reputable dealer in gold and
silver for the jewellers trade. That handled by
most tool and hardware houses is made up for
soldering band-saws, etc., and is usually a cheap
33
f
34 SIMPLE SOLDERING
grade containing lead and sometimes zinc in too
great a proportion. Although these metals make
the solder flow easily, they are disastrous since
they will pit and eat holes in silver work when
the silver is red hot. Copper is even thus
affected.
The fact that pure silver is alloyed with brass
makes it melt at a temperature slightly lower than
that of the pure silver itself, hence the value
of it in the building up of articles of silver into
elaborate and complicated forms.
Copper may not be soldered with Copper but
it may be soldered or brazed with brass
which is an alloy of copper and zinc, melting
at a lower temperature than the copper when
properly fluxed with borax.
Silver Solder is generally used to solder small
articles in copper, brass, bronze, silver and ger-
man silver.
Iron and steel are usually soldered or brazed
with brass. Though silver solder is used even
for small steel or iron objects. In large work
it is too expensive and brass is stronger and
better suited for such work.
Gold is usually soldered with gold of a lower
grade or carat. For instance twenty-two carat
gold may be soldered with eighteen carat; eight-
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 3S
een carat with fourteen; fourteen with ten, etc.
It is simply soldering the gold with an alloy
of gold, gold and copper or gold and silver.
Gold may be soldered with silver solder but the
color is not always satisfactory, though it takes
up a certain amount of the gold color.
The Indians use pure silver filings mixed with
saliva for soldering their silver work and this
works fairly well as the heat attacks the smaller
particles first and melts them. However, borax
is better flux than saliva.
Aluminum is usually soldered with a specially
prepared solder which is best purchased with
complete directions, for using. Care should be
taken, however, to heat both pieces of the work
to be soldered, up to the melting point of the
solder. As Aluminum is a soft metal melting
at a low temperature it does not come under the
head of hard soldering.
Let us suppose we have to hard solder a 3 inch
copper ring made from J inch round rod. First
clean the joint thoroughly about the edges with
the scraper. If freshly cut with a saw or file on
which there was no oil or grease only the metal
about the joint need be scraped. The ring being
made of heavy copper is likely to expand to a
great extent and thus pull the ends apart. Care
should be taken to bind it with wire, as shown in
Fig. 21, across and below center. Then bring
an upward pressure to bear on it with the wire
36 SIMPLE SOLDERING
tightly twisted at the top of ring. So much for
the preparation of the ring, for soldering.
Borax in some shape is always used as the
flux. In large work it is the powdered form that
Fig. 21.
is employed. In the smaller work it is much
better to grind up lump borax on a slate block
specially prepared for the purpose (Fig. 22)
to a rather creamy consistency, using a large
lump of borax, which may be easily held in the
fingers and worked about with a circular niotioa
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 37
on the block, which is hollowed out and contains
about a tablespoonful of water.
Care should be taken to lay the borax lump
aside, clear of the water, not in it, as this will
tend to make it crumble.
Silver Solder usually comes in a thin sheet.
A piece about ij inches by 3 inches by '/ei inch
may be had for about 25c. in New York. Cut up
Fic. 22.
a small strip 14e i"*^h wide by 3 inches long and
scrape it bright. Cut little pieces about 3^6 >"ch
square from this strip with a pair of shears and
drop them into the borax mixture in the block.
Eight of these pieces will be about enough for
this job, but each piece of solder must be thor-
oughly covered with the wet borax.
Now dip a small brush into the wet borax
and smear the solution between and above the
38
SIMPLE SOLDERING
joint in the ring, thoroughly covering the part
to .be soldered. The solder will not ruh properly
if this is not carefully applied. Put on plenty of
the borax solution but only where you want the
solder to flow. An injudicious use of the borax
will muss up the work, and lead the solder away
from the joint itself.
While the borax is still in a wet pasty state,
apply small pieces of solder, picked up in the
points of a pair of tweezers (Fig. 23) and not
with the fingers or any old thing at hand.
Small pieces may be picked up on the tip of
the brush with which the borax is applied, but
Fig. 23.
the tweezers are best. Place the solder above
the joint where it will rest naturally but do not
pile the pieces up. Keep them separated. The
smaller the solder is cut the better it will work
since large pieces tend to run up into balls on
account of receiving too much heat and are
liable to cool in this form. The object of placing
them on wet is so the borax will form a sort of
cement in drying, which it would not do if they
were applied dry.
If intense heat is applied too soon it will make
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 39
the borax " boil " or bubble up, often throwing
the solder completely away from the work and
throwing the latter out of place. The heat there-
fore must be applied very slowly and gently.
Difficult and elaborate work is usually first dried
in an oven, so that the delicate parts may not be
pushed away from each other when the borax
expands under heat. For this reason also, it
is best to use the lump borax ground with
water.
In order to melt the silver solder to the flowing
point it is necessary to heat the copper ring to
the melting point of the silver. This requires
almost a white-heat. Now if one side of the
joint is heated more than the other, the solder
will flow on to the hottest part and will not ad-
here to the cooler portion. Both sides of the
joint must be equally heated. Care must be
taken not to direct the heat on to the joint itself
or on to the bits of solder until these melt from
the heat received from the metal. If the flame
is played on them they run up into little balls and
either roll away or do not melt and flow further
because of the oxide on them.
It must always be remembered to let the solder
melt from the heat transmitted by the metal and
not the direct flame.
The blow pipe best suited for this job is de-
scribed in the chapter on apparatus (see Figs. 32
and 33), although a gasoline blow torch would
answer nicely.
40 SIMPLE SOLDERING
If the ring be suspended in the air and the
flame directed on it, so much heat will be wasted
that even with a very powerful flame it would be
difficult to heat it sufficiently. The ring should
be surrounded by some heat reflecting material
such as asbestos, fire brick or charcoal, asbestos
Fig. 24.
being the best. The ring should rest in the
corner of a two-sided box having a square bot-
tom. (See Fig. 24.)
The flame should be carefully directed above
and not against the ring, until the borax whitens.
Then it may be played back and forth over the
HARD 50EJ1ERING OR BRAZING 4I
part of the ring. When the melting point is
reached the solder will be seen to " sweat " and
suddenly dissolve into the joint and around it.
Then the flame may be directed squarely on the
joint for a sceond or two to complete the fusion.
The ring should now be solidly soldered.
It may then be plunged into the " pickle " bath
which is a mixture of one part of sulphuric acid
and ten parts of water. This is usually kept
under the soldering bench in a stone jar, covered.
The action of the water and acid is to eat away
the oxide and scale formed by the heat. The
work after immersion should be almost instantly
removed from this bath and should come away
clean and bright. It should then be dipped into
clean water and dryed in a box of sawdust by
tumbling it about until the sawdust absorbs all
the moisture. If it is desirable to add more sol-
der during the heating process or after the solder
42 SIMPLE SOLDERING
which was first placed on has melted, simply
place more solder, well covered with borax, on
the hot joint and reheat. More borax may be
added while the ring is still hot. This will often
help a stubborn bit of solder to flow.
If the Solder refuses to melt, look to the way
you are heating your ring. If this does not
remedy it cool it in water only and scrape afresh,
applying more borax and new solder.
Silver solder will not fill up a hole or gap
unless the operation is in very expert hands,
and care must be taken to have the joints fit
tightly together. No matter how tight the joint
is the solder will fill it and the smaller the
amount of solder used the stronger will be the
joint.
If the ring had been made of flat sheet metal
instead of rod like the ring used to illustrate
soft soldering (Fig. 25) and it is desired to sol-
der it on its side to a flat sheet of copper we must
proceed as follows:
Let us take as an example a case where the
ring has been soldered together with hard-solder.
First scrape the side of the ring that is to be
placed next the plate. Then scrape the plate
thoroughly at the point of contact with the ring
and bind the latter in position with iron wire.
Apply borax about the joint and also a number
of small pieces of solder %^ inch square, J inch
apart. Lay them inside the ring as indicated in
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 43
Fig. 25. Then dry the borax with a gentle
heat so that it turns white. If the first joint
made in the ring is not protected it will very-
likely open and the solder will flow into the
larger body of molten solder which seems to
exert a strong attraction for it. Therefore, this
must be protected with an earthy mixture such
as rouge and water, crocus and water or plaster-
of-paris and water.
Rouge, which is the best, is an oxide of iron
and comes in the form of a fine red powder. A
paste should be mixed to the consistency of house
paint and placed in an old saucer. Use care not
to make it too wet and then apply it to both
sides of the joint as indicated in Fig. 25, by the
darkened portion. Great care should be taken,
however, not to allow the smallest particle of
the rouge to touch where the new joint is to be
made. This will happen if it contains too much
water. The object of drying the borax first is
so that the rouge will not mix with it.
If the iron wires are very thin they had better
be covered with rouge as it will keep them from
burning apart.
Heating. The work is now ready for heating.
This should be done very carefully, avoiding the
pieces of solder, remembering to heat the larger
pieces first and keeping the flame constantly
moving so as to heat the whole piece equally.
44 SIMPLE SOLDERING
Remember that the ring which is probably lighter
and on top is apt to get most of the heat, so heat
up the back plate first.
If the ring should be very small in proportion
to the plate it would probably absorb enough
heat from the larger piece to melt the solder
without the flame touching the ring. This must
be thoroughly understood. When the solder has
run dip the work in the " pickle " and clean. If
it is desired to attach some smaller pieces, such
as brass knobs or nuts, to the back plate, pro-
ceed as before.
First secure the joints already made, by paint-
ing them with rouge. Carefully heat the larger
portion first with a constantly moving flame.
Do not heat one portion of the work first, if sev-
eral joints are to be soldered. Heat the whole
thing up at once so that all the joints are done
at one time.
Do not direct* the flame on one portion of the
work. Keep it moving about constantly to ob-
tain an even heat and avoid overheating the
wires. ,
If the piece of work is rather large for the
flame at hand, it is a good plan to surround the
work with a number of pieces of charcoal making
a wall of it, so that it retains the heat and helps
to keep the temperature even all about. Old
pieces of broken brick are also very useful. All
this of course is to be done on a suitably pro-
tected bed of asbestos or brick or even cinders.
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 45
Sometimes work is heated up on a matted bunch
of old fine iron wire called a " devil."
Small pieces of work which are moved out of
position while the solder is molten may be pushed
in place with a pointed iron wire.
It sometimes happens in making jewelry that
while soldering on silver balls or small rings
that they are strongly attracted by the larger
heated bodies of metal, or the molten solder, and
in that case a judicious use of the iron wire is
very helpful in replacing them.
Or if it is desired to remove a piece of work
this may be done by first protecting the other
parts with rouge, then heating the solder to the
melting point and lifting the work off. It will
be found to cling rather tenaciously, however,
and care will be required to successfully perform
the operation.
The Whole Secret of Hard Soldering is to
keep the work clean, to have the joint and solder
well covered with borax, and to heat both parts
to be joined slowly and equally.
Copper should be experimented with before
silver as copper melts at a much higher tem-
perature than silver; therefore there is less
chance of " burning up " the work when first
starting in.
The Melting Point of Sterling Silver is only a
46 SIMPLE SOLDERING
little above that of ordinary silver-solder and
great care is required to avoid melting up the
work.
The flame must always be in proportion to
the work, using the largest flame possible on
large work and the smallest on small work.
Any sort of object may be built up, and any
number of joints made if they are carefully pro-
tected by rouge while the new joints are being
made.
Sometimes small pieces of silver wire or fili-
gree are to be soldered together and there is no
way of holding them together by clamps or wire.
Charcoal Block. An especially prepared block
of charcoal is used that does not burn away
quickly and the work held in position by ordinary
steel pins well rouged. (Fig. 26). The little
balls may be laid up against the work so that
they will adhere if carefully heated. A soft
earthenware brick and a compressed asbestos
pad are also obtainable for this purpose.
The solder should be applied at each joint.
If it is desirable to attach other pieces it may be
done by covering the joints as they are soldered
thick with rouge. Experience and patience alone
will help here.
At times it is necessary to solder together a
solid metal wire or handle, that has been broken.
It is often impossible to wire this or clamp it
and so the best way to make a strong job is to
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 47
make a lap joint and put in a rivet of silver or
other metal. File the work up bright and cover
well with borax and some small bits of solder.
Then fuse it together. By using borax two pieces
of silver may be " sweated " together exactly the
same as hard soldering without the solder, but
this is hard to do and experience only will tell
when 'it is desirable.
Pickle Bath. The cold pickle described will
do for most of the common metals, but for silver
and gold a hot pickle is generally used. This is
composed of one part of sulphuric or nitric acid
4S SIMPLE SOLDERING
to ten parts of hot water and is usually kept at
almost boiling point in a small stone crock which
is placed in a bath of hot water (Fig. 27) on a
gas stove near the blow pipe.
The work is placed in this to " boil out," and
should come out in a minute or so perfectly free
from all dirt and oxide. Care should be taken
lest it be left in too long or the acid will play
havoc with the work, attacking the solder first.
Great precaution should be taken in all hard
soldering that no soft solder, lead or tin be near
Fic 27.
to the work when the copper is heated for hard
soldering. This is particularly true of silver for
the lead will eat holes clear through the work
and usually ruins it. If the work in hard sol-
dering becomes all pitted you may rest assured
there is lead present or that you are using an
impure quality of solder, or the solder may have
too much zinc added to it. Only such zinc as is
contained in the brass should mix with the silver.
There are many grades of silver solder made
for special purposes, but these are of ho use ex-
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 49
cept to the experienced and to the trade. One
grade, however, is almost always used.
It must also be remembered at all times to bind
and clamp the work together firmly and to sup-
port it well, for when it is hot the metal bends
easily and may sag out of shape. So that
special rouge-covered sheet-iron supports must
be arranged, clamps made, and' binding wire
freely used.
Silver Work should never be put into pickle
with iron binding wiring attached or picked out
from it with iron tongs as the acid acting with
the iron will tend to put a heavy copper deposit
on the work in spots.
Brazing. A word as to heavy brazing perhaps
would not be out of place, but this book is not
intended as a text-book on this art since it is in
a class by itself.
50 SIMPLE SOLDERING
It is identically the same as hard soldering ex-
cepting pure brass is used as a solder or
" spelter." The work should be thoroughly
filed and clamped or riveted together, then wet
powdered borax is plentifully applied and the
grain spelter, little globules of brass as it comes
for this purpose or bits of clean sheet brass may
be used above the joint and well covered with
the wetted borax.
In some shops a powerful double gasoline
HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 5 1
torch is used (Fig. 28). As the flames come from
one given direction, bricks will have to be ar-
ranged as reflectors to direct the heat where it is
needed until the joint runs.
If it is observed that there is not enough
spelter to hold the work or fill the joint, dry
powdered borax may be thrown on the hot work
and more spelter added or the joint touched with
a long brass wire which melts instantly on it.
If the weld is to be made in a charcoal fire
or blacksmith forge care should be taken to build
the fire up like the crater of a volcano so that a
column of white flame shoots up onto the work
which is embedded near the top of the fire
(Fig. 29). A constant blast should be main-
tained and the bellows worked evenly and slowly
for sudden heating will heat the lower half of
work too much. Care »should be taken that
plenty of coke or charcoal is placed over the work
to reflect the heat down.
The work should be watched carefully and re-
moved the instant it is brazed, and then quenched
with cold water.
CHAPTER V.
Cleaning up Work. Polishing
Soldered work frequently requires cleaning up
and removing the surplus solder and flux with a
scraper or an old file. Sometimes it is removed
with an emery wheel, and ground quickly down
to the original metal, leaving only sufficient sol-
der to hold the work safely. This can be done
with the sharp steel scraping instrument (Fig.
3) after the work has been properly " pickled."
A scraper of the hoe or plow type (Fig. 6) is
used mostly for this work. Care should be taken
that the original metals are not marred or deeply
scored by the scrapers which will make ugly
scratches that can be removed only by a great
deal of work with small curved " riffle " files.
Scraping Down. After scraping down to the
bare metal the next step is to smooth the metal
up to the original smooth surface and this is best
done by taking a piece of " Scotch Stone " (Fig.
30) about three-eighths of an inch square, and
some six inches in length. Grind this to a blunt
wedge that fits into the joint roughly. Rubbing
back and forth with the stone moistened with
water will quickly wear away the roughened
metal to the required smoothness.
52
CLEANING UP WORK. POLISHING 53
Too much water should not be used but only-
enough to lubricate the stone. After this a " red"
or rotten stone should be used in the same way
to remove the scratches left by the Scotch stone.
These stones are of great advantage in reach-
ing' points that may not be polished otherwise as
they are easily ground to fit any work.
An ordinary slate pencil will do very well if
the Scotch stone is not at hand. In fact almost
any soft blue stone will do, but the Scotch stone
is best.
Finishing. Pine sticks or orange wood, shaped
like a lead pencil may be dipped into cutting
down composition which is a mixture of emery
and wax that comes ready for use. The work-
ing end of the stick is to be rubbed into this
54 SIMPLE SOLDERING
mixture and when rubbed over the work will
smooth it up still more.
Still a finer finish may be given by pith sticks
of elder and rouge composition and then perhaps
rubbing with felt.
Buff Sticks. What are known as " hand buff "
sticks are very useful in polishing; they consist
of sticks or flat handles of wood with strips of
leather and felt glued to them. These are simply
charged with the cutting down compound and
rouge compound and rubbed against the work.
In large work after removing the surplus sol-
der with a file or coarse emery wheel, either a
finer emery wheel, or a carborundum wheel is
used to remove the scratches left by the rougher
wheel and then smoothing on a leather wheel
of walrus-hide on which the cutting down com-
position has been rubbed while it is revolving.
A Final Polish is usually given by a cotton
buff wheel which is run at a high rate of speed.
Such a wheel is made of layers of cotton cloth
so that the centrifugal force flings the edges of
the cloth disks against the metal with sufficient
force to polish^ it. This is charged with the
rouge composition.
Files that are not to be used for any other
work should be kept for filing away soft solder,
which fills them up completely so that the teeth
CLEANING UP WORK. POLISHING
55
will not bite. Coarse files may be cleaned, how-
ever. Sometimes sticks of carborundum or
emery are used in the hollows where the revolv-
ing emery wheel may not go. Such work should
then be finished up with the Scotch stone.
Burnisher. Bright work may be burnished
with a steel burnisher which is a smooth, highly
SECTION
Fig. 31.
wooden handle
polished instrument set in a
(Fig. 31).
This is grasped firmly in the hand and the
point of the tool worked about on the metal,
until it smooths up. The body of the tool may
be used as well as the edges.
CHAPTER VI
Standard Apparatus
Since there are a number of ways to heat up
the metals to the melting point of the different
solders it is thought best to describe them al-
together in one chapter so that the reader may
choose those best suited to his needs and con-
ditions. It should be remembered that it takes
no particular kind of heat to melt the solders,
Fig. 32.
but the several convenient forms of applying
it are here described.
Blow Pipe. The most commonly used tool
for this is the blow-pipe (Figs. 32 and 33), which
consists of two pipes, one to conduct the air un-
der slight pressure and the other the gas. The
gas and air mix near the end, forming a powerful
blue fla'me free from soot of any kind. It may
easily be^cdntroUed with the valves in the sepa-
rate tubes (Pig. 32).
56
STANDARD APPARATUS 57
The air is supplied from a foot bellows, through
a flexible rubber tube, or in large shops from a
positive pressure blower. The idea being to get
a large volume of air under low pressure. The
highly compressed air used for power purposes
is seldom used unless with a special defusing
arrangement.
The Foot Bellows is very satisfactory and its
action simple. It has a rubber disk reservoir
which makes possible a steady blast. A slow
steady pumping movement is better than a short
" choppy " one since it accomplishes the work
sooner. The gas pipe should be connected to
the gas-main with a flexible tube; the other
tube connects the bellows with the air pipe.
58 SIMPLE SOLDERING
The gas should be turned on first and then a
lighted match applied to the burner, then the
bellows pumped fast enough to supply sufficient
air pressure to produce a blue flame which is
hottest at the tip of the inner blue cone.
For general shop work a blow-pipe with tubes
about f inch inside diameter is most useful.
The craftsmen in the country may obtain a
gasoline outfit which works practically the same ;
Fig. 34-
the only difference is that instead of attaching
the blow pipe to the gas main it is attached to
a small gasoline tank and the gasoline vapor
used through a special blow pipe. A foot bel-
lows supplies the air.
Gasoline Torch. Next best to this is the gas-
oline torch (Fig. 34). There are a number of
these on the market and when good care is taken
STANDARD APPARATUS 59
of them they work very well indeed. They are
usually lighted by pouring a little alcohol or
gasoline into cup A and heating burner B until
upon turning handle C slightly a blue flame i^
produced at the end of B.
Some forms have a pump attached to make a
pressure which forces the gasoline up to the
Fig. 35.
burner. In this case the cup A is allowed to col-
lect the drip, the handle C closed and A lighted.
When after a time C is turned on again there
should be a blue flame at the end of B. Great
care should be used in handling these as some
frightful accidents have happened from lighting
them when not tightly stoppered.
Alcohol Blow Torch. For small work an alco-
6o SIMPLE SOLDERING
hol blow torch is frequently used. This consists
of a thick wick enclosed in a brass fount filled
with alcohol (Fig. 35). A small brass pipe is
affixed to the side to which is attached a piece
of flexible tube and mouthpiece. A current of
air is blown through this pipe across the wick and
forms a long slender flame and an extremely
powerful one considering its size.
Another more common form of blow pipe is a
hollow brass tube, on one end of which is a
Fig. 36.
mouth-piece; the other end tapers down to a
point having a pin hole in it. This is used across
a fat alcohol or gas flame to direct a tiny pointed
flame against very small work. It is often used
but requires some little practice,
Bunsen, Burner. The bunsen flame is pro-
duced by the bunsen burner, which mixes a
natural draught of air with the gas and makes
a hot blue flame much used for direct heating.
It is especially useful to suspend work over in
STANDARD APPARATUS .6l
soft or hard soldering. The air is admitted by
the holes in the side of the pipe, and the gas
comes in through a small opening. The hottest
part is at the tip of the inner blue cone in Eame.
Charcoal is still used abroad to solder with.
Some of the most beautiful and the. most dif-
Fig. 37-
ficult work has been done by this simple method.
The live charcoal is held in a brazier (Fig. 36)
or basket and the work carefully placed on the
hot coals and the charcoal backed up above it
A pair of long nosed bellows is used to direct
the flame where wanted most.
62 . SIMPLE SOLDERING
Soldering Iron Furnace. For the heating of
soldering irons a gas-furnace may be used to ad-
vantage or the common form of charcoal furnace
(Fig. 37) made from sheet iron. The capper
is placed at the bottom of the fire on the grate
or the copper may be heated by a bunsen burner
or even in a wood fire, never in a coal fire.
'a
CHAPTER VII
Home Made Apparatus
Bunsen Burner. A very simple way to make
this useful article is to take a piece of f inch
inside diameter brass tubing about 7 inches long.
Bore two %« i^ich holes in it about ij inches
from the end. This is easily done by first
drilling through both sides of the tube with a
i inch drill, and then using a larger drill to follow
this lead. Care should be taken not to tear the
s:
Fig. 38.
metal with the large drill as it is only thin brass
tubing. A good way to prevent this is to jam
a round stick in and let it form an inside support
for the tube while drilling. Now take a piece
of f inch outside diameter brass tubing 3J inches
in length. This must fit snugly into the larger
tube for about i inch. Take an ordinary alum-
inum gas tip and drill out the end to %e
inch diameter and drive the tip firmly into the
end of the smaller tube. (Fig. 38.) Attach this
65
64 SIMPLE SOLDERING
to a gas tubing and slip the larger tube over the
burner tip until this shows plainly through the
air holes. Turn on the gas and light it. Then
slide the larger tube up and down slightly until
the best blue flame is obtained.
This burner should give a flame about 8 inches
in length easily. When the best mixture of air
and gas is obtained, make a mark on both tubes
as a position guide for soldering. Turn off the
gas and soft solder the tubes together.
BAVf
HERB.
Fig. 39.
If desired the tubes may easily behard soldered
by removing the aluminum tip. After hard sol-
dering the two pipes together as previously
marked, drop the aluminum tip down the larger
pipe, guide the narrow end of tip into the smaller
pipe and jam it firmly home with the aid of a
small round stick inserted down the larger pipe.
This bunsen burner is used at the end of a
flexible rubber tube and is very useful in the
metal shop.
A Simple Blow Pipe. Get an old single gas
bracket with stop cock attached and saw off the
HOME MADE APPARATUS
65
top just below where the burner is connected.
See Fig. 39. These brackets are made of brass
tubing about f in. inside diameter. Take a piece
of f in. inside diameter brass tubing about 12
inches long and bend it carefully so it may take
Fig. 40.
Fig. 41.
the position of air pipe as indicated in Figs. 40
and 41. This may be easily done by filling the
tube with melted resin ; then cooling and bending
over a round block of wood, afterwards melting
the resin out. Drill a hole at A to receive the
end of this pipe, stopping it about J in. from the
end of B. Solder this in with soft solder and
then take a piece of stiff sheet brass or copper
and make a brace by cutting a slit in the middle
of each end and bending the little laps thus pro-
66 SIMPLE SOLDERING
duced around each side of the tubing. Solder
these as at C. Care should be taken to get the
larger tube so that the air will be shot into the
center of the flow of gas at D or else the flame
may prove ragged and lopsided.
The stop cock is an excellent means of <;ontrol
for the size of the flame. The air pressure may-
be regulated by the foot bellows. A small piece
of pipe should be attached to the other end of
the valve at E. Most gas connections are fitted
to f in. gas pipe, which is f in. outside diameter
and too large to fit conveniently on an ordinary
gas tubing. This may be remedied by securing
a f in. to i in. bushing from the pipe-fitter and
screwing it into the valve, when a short piece of
i in. pipe may easily be put into that. Some-
times these small blow-pipes are used with a
tube to the mouth instead of the foot bellows.
A larger blow-pipe may be made of galvanized
pipe and fittings, say ^ in. pipe. For this you
will need one piece of pipe 12 inches long; -one
piece 4 inches long and one piece 2 inches, all of
these to be threaded ; one i in. stop cock, gas or
valve; one i in. T piece; one i in. plug; one
piece of J in. pipe, 16 inches long; one piece of
1 in. pipe, 6 inches long; one J in. elbow. First
screw the 12-inch piece of i in. pipe into the side
connection of the T at A, Fig. 42 ; next the f our^-
HOME MADE APPARATUS
67
inch piece at B ; now screw in the i in. plug at
C and drill it out so that the shorter piece of i in.
pipe will fit snugly through it. Then make a
cleaner fit by filing. Screw the pieces of i in.
pipe into the elbow of the same dimensions and
Fig. 42.
slip the smaller end through plug at C until it
comes within about f in. of the end of ^ in. pipe
D. Then slip on brace E, which is made of thick
sheet brass or copper. This may be either soft
or hard soldered into place as also may the joint
at C, since the blow-pipe rarely gets hot enough
to disturb soft solder if there is a current of air
forced through it. The stop cock may now be
attached. If desired one may also be put on the
J in. air supply pipe. This will be found to give
a. very powerful flame.
Foot Bellows. A good pair of foot bellows
may be made as follows: From clear J in. pine
68 SIMPLE SOLDERING
boards make up three end pieces of the shape
shown in Fig. 43, by gluing and cleating the
boards together. It is best made of boards 6
inches wide and cut down to the meaiurements
after the boards have been fitted together. Make
joints air tight by careful work in fitting and
gluing together. The cleats should not be over
Fio. 43,
1 in. in height. Two of the end pieces require a
2 in. hole drilled in their center as indicated in
Fig. 43. A i in. hole may be drilled in the third
end piece. Cut out two blocks of l in. planking
3J in. by 3i in. Bevel one side of the two larger
blocks as shown in Fig. 44.
Take a piece of thin soft leather and cut out
two pieces 3i in. by 5 inches, lay these on a flat
HOME MADE APPARATUS 69
surface, rough side uppermost and cover well
with strong glue. Place one small and one large
block on each piece of leather as indicated in
Fig. 44, and put on top of the blocks a good heavy
weight to make the leather adhere firmly to the
Fro. 45.
blocks when the glue is dry. The smaller block
A is secured to the boards with two screws, and
B forms the cover for, the inlet valve. Fig, 45
shows these two valve covers in position.
Now attach the three boards together by
70 SIMPLE SOLDERING
hinges i and 2 at the smaller end, Fig. 45; foiir
hinges will be required, two for the top board to
the center and two for the center board to the
bottom board. These hinges are put inside, see
Fig. 45.
Place a heavy spring between boards A and B
and secure firmly with staples (an old bed spring
will do).
Procure a large sheet of paper, upon which to
make your pattern for the bellows leather.
Pattern for Bellows Leather. Stand the bel-
lows on its edge on the sheet of paper with the
hinges on the left hand. This will give you the
thickness of the bellows by the hinges, which is
indicated by two pencil marks, one on each side
of the boards. Open the bellows in front about
6 or 8 inches, hold bellows firmly with left hand
and draw a pencil mark from left to right, first
on one side and then on the other. Roll bellows
forward slowly to the right on to the front edges
marking the paper on both sides with the pencil
until you have rolled the boards onto the oppo-
site side edges and the back stands perpendicular
but with the hinges to the right, being careful
to keep the bellows open the same width all the
time. This can be done by tacking a strip of
wood across the front before proceeding to draw
the pattern.
The length of this rough diagram will be
equivalent to the measurement from the back on
HOME MADE APPARATUS 71
one side around the edge of the board to the
corner on the other side. The width of the
boards at the back must now be allowed tor, in-
cluding 2 inches for the lap, see Fig. 48. This
will give a rough outline of the shape the leather
■ Fig. 46.
should be, see Fig. 46. The widest part of the
drawing should be equivalent to the front part
of the bellows fully extended, allowing enough
leather to properly cover the edges of the out-
side boards. The narrowest end should be wide
enough to cover the hinges and lap over.
Cut this pattern out, lay the bellows on the
table on its side and if the pattern has been
marked correctly it should be sufficiently large
to completely surround the bellows with about
2 inches lap at the hinges.
72 SIMPLE SOLDERING
Place the pattern on the leather and proceed
to cut out the leather, allowing a good margin
all around; this can be trimmed off after the
leather has been nailed into position. The leather
should be cut from' a soft pliable hide.
Fold the leather in half long-ways and crease
it with a hard flat instrument. This line should
represent the center of the bellows or the central
Fig. 48.
board. Make two other creases each half long-
ways. A flat iron could be used, pressed firmly
backwards and forwards along the creased
marks. The leather should be folded with the
smooth surface outwards. If this has been prop-
erly done when the leather is in place on the
bellows it should have the appearance as shown
in Fig. 50. Now coat the edges with a liberal
supply of a good glue, and commence to nail on
HOME MADE APPARATUS
73
the leather, commencing with one end at the
back of the bellows, but be sure that the widest
part of the leather comes squarely in the front,
otherwise the bellows will be crooked when
finished.
Then tack the leather firmly on, using a strip
of leather. Fig. 47, between the tack-head and
the bellows leather to protect the latter. The
Fig. 49.
tacks should go about i in. apart and completely
around the three end boards. Fig. 48, making an
upper and lower air tight chamber. Do hot
smear up the leather with the glue except at
joint, for this would tend to crack the leather.
This operation will require some careful work.
Let the small ends of the bellows leather lap
over about 2 inches.
Air Tight. Great care must be taken to make
SIMPLE SOLDERING
the bellows all perfectly air-tight. Use leather
cement to paste the ends of the leather together.
Bellows Legs. Make the legs preferably of
li in. by i in. band iron, which may easily be
bent in the vise cold. The foot pedal, which is
attached by long screws to the centre board, will
have to be made of heavier stock, ij in, by J in.
Fig. so-
thick. Take a piece of this band iron 12 inches
long and drill a J in. hole in the center of it about
5 inches from one end. Then with a cold chisel
split it along dotted line so as to make a
2-pronged piece. Fig, 49, These prongs should
be bent at right angles to the flat piece as indi-
cated by the dotted lines. This had best be done
by heating in a blacksmith's forge, or fire, and
home: made apparatus 75
bending while red hot. Then bend the larger
piece at right angles along the dotted line ; flat-
ten out the straight end a bit to make a good
rest for the foot. Attach the legs firmly to the
bottom board and the foot piece to the end of
Fig. 51.
the middle board. This makes a powerful and
lasting bellows. Fig. 50.
The Author has used one of these bellows con-
stantly for five years and it has never had to be
repaired as the bought ones do. A heavy iron
weight on top of this bellows will give more
force to the blast, but the bellows take some
76 SlMi»LE SOLDERim;
time to make and if time is precious it is better
to use the bought ones.
A Soldering Box may be made as follows : take
a small solid packing box and knock out the top
and two sides. This would leave the bottom
with two sides standing as illustrated in Fig. 51.
Now cover over the bottom with tin as well as
the inside of the sides and edges. Then cover
over the tin with heavy asbestos. One or two
old fire bricks are useful to lay the work on so as
to save the asbestos from too much over-heating.
A Very Simple Soldering Iron^ Fig. 52, may be
Fig. 52.
made by taking a piece of f in. copper rod about
3 inches long, filing or forging it down to a taper-
ing square pyramidal point, drilling a i in. fiole
about f in. from one end, running a wire through
this hole, squeezing it into the copper rod be-
tween the vise jaws and then twisting the wire
so as to form a handle.
"S. & C." LIST
OCTO'BER, 1913
SPECIAL CATALOGUE
OF BOOKS FOR
MECHANICS, AMATEURS
and STUDENTS.
UAiform lA CrowA 8vo, Cloth. PRICE 1/6 Aet each Volume.
PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY
E. & F. N. SPON, Limited,
57, Haymarket, London, S.W.
(Entrance In Norris Street.)
Telephones: 3460 CENTRAL.
Telegrams: FEN8PON, CHARLES, LONDON
PAGE
Accumulator 3
Aviation 3
Batteries 3
Bicycles 4
Coils 4
Concrete and Reinforced
Concrete 4
Electric Bells 8
Electrical Engineering . . 8
Electric Gas Lighting . . 9
Electric Lighting ... 9
Gyroscope .
Inventions .
Perspective
Quantities .
Steam Engine
Soldering .
Telephony .
Theatre (Model)
Wiring .
Wireless Telephony
Wireless Telegraphy
page
9
10
10
10
10
II
II
12
12
13
13
NOTE. — The Prices in this Catalogue apply to Books
sold in the United Kingdom only.
P.R. 1030.
IMPORTANT NOTICE TO
BOOK BUYERS ABROAD
Messrs. E. & F. N. Spon, Ltd., beg to remind customers abroad
that the general rate of Book Postage is fourpence a pound ; while
the limit of weight allowed to British Colonies and India is 5 lb.,
and to all other countries 4 lb.
An addition of ten per cent, to the Published Price will, in
most cases, cover cost of postage.
Remittance should be made by International Money Order,
made payable to E. & F. N. Spon, Ltd., at London.
NOTE. — In addition to the Books listed, Messrs. Spon stock
every current Book for Mechanics and Amateurs in the English
language.
Sh§kh Plan showing position of the Entrance to Messrs. Spans*
Book Room in Norris Street, Haymarket.
■■'/':','■■.■ >'.
* JERMYN ST.
r
CHARLES STREET H*
PALL MALL ToOtanngCnss
LIST OF S. <fe C. SERIES
ACCUMULATOR.
lotion Accumulators. By Harold H. U. Cross. Care
and management and Electric Light for the million, con-
taining practical information on the Charging and Repairing
of Motor Cycle, Motor Car, and other similar Ignition Accu-
mulators. Also the adaptation of a slightly larger genus
to a unique system of Electric Lighting. 12 illus., 66 pp.
(No. 19, 1910.) IS. 6^. net..
The Charging of Accumulators — Testing — Charging from Primary
Cells and Supply Mains — The Prevention of Injurious Sulphate — The
Repairing of Accumulators — Causes of Failure — Accumulator Dis-
ease and Treatment of Cases — Fitting Terminals — Thickness of
Plate and Capacity — The Accumulator in the Home — Plant and its
Cost — System of Distribution — Turn- down Switch — Other Fittings —
Switchboard and Wiring — Faults, their Location and Repair.
AVIATION.
How to Build a 20-foot Bi-Plane Glider. By A. Powell
Morgan. A practical Handbook on the construction of
a BirPlane Gliding Machine, enabling an intelligent reader
to make his first step in the field of Aviation with a com-
prehensive understanding of the principles involved. 30
illus., 60 pp. [No. 14. New York, 1909.) is. 6d. net.
The Framework, assembUng and finishing the Wood — Covering the
Planes ; laying out the Fabric and fastening it — ^Trussing ; fasten-
ing the rods and trueing the Glides — Gliding flight ; the Principles
involved ; Instructions and Precautions — Remarks.
Natural Stability : And the Parachute principle in Aeroplanes.
By W. LeMaitre. 34 illus., 46 pp. [No, 39, 191U) is. 6d.
net.
Preface — ^The importance of Stability — Speed as a means of
Stability — ^The Low Centre of Gravity — Short Span and Area — ^Vari-
able Speed and the Parachute Principle — The Design which fulfils the
Conditions.
BATTERIES.
Dry Batteries : How to make and use them. By Norman
H. Schneider. Giving full detailed instructions for the
manufacture of Dry Cells of any shape and size, especially
adapted for Automobile, Launch and Gas Engine work,
Medical Coils, Bells, Burglar Alarms, and for all purposes
4 E. & F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 HAYMARKET, LONDON, S.W.
requiring a first-class battery. 30 illus., 59 pp. (No, 7.
Neiv York. 1910,) is. 6d. net.
Tools needed and their Use — ^Making the Cells — Chemicals employed
in making the Cell — Assembling the Cell, Charging and Sealing —
Finishing : the Cell — a new form of Dry Cell— Connecting up
Multiple Series — Bell Work — Motor Work — change over Switch
Wiring — When to throw away a Cell — How to Make an Electric
star for Decoration — Electric Motors.
Modern Primary Batteries : Their construction, use and
maintenance. By Norman H. Schneider. Including
Batteries for Telephones, Telegraphs, Motors, Electric
Lights, Induction Coils and for all experimental work.
55 illus., 94 pp. (No. 1. New York, 1910.) is. 6d. net.
Introduction — Cells for Intermittent Use — Acid Cells — Copper
Sulphate Cells — Miscellaneous Cells — Selection and Care of Battery —
Practical Notes.
BICYCLES.
Cycle Building and Repairing. By Peter Henry. In-
cluding Care of Lamp, Enamelling, Repair of Tyres and Wheel
Building. 55 illus., 96 pp. (No. 43, 1913.) is. 6d. net.
Introduction — Building a Machine — Building the Wheels — Simple
Repairs — Tyre Repairing — Cycle Enamelling — ^The Care of the Lamp
— Index.
COILS.
Experimenting with Induction Coils. By H. S. Norrie.
Containing practical directions for operating. Induction
Coils and Tesla Coils ; also showing how to make the ap-
paratus needed for the numerous experiments described.
26 illus., 73 pp. (No. 5. New York, 1911.) is. 6d. net.
Introduction — The HandUng of a RuhmkorfE Coil — Experiments
with Sparks — Effects in the Vacuum — Induction and Wireless
Telegraphy.
CONCRETE AND REINFORCED
CONCRETE.
Practical Silo Construction. Illustrating and explaining
the most simple and easy Practical Methods of Constructing
Concrete Silos of all Types from impatented forms and
moulds. By A. A. Houghton. 18 illus,, Sg'pp. (No. 27.
New York, 1911.) is. 6d. net.
LIST OF S. & C. SERIES
Concrete Silo — Requirements of a Silo — Size of Silo to Erect —
Foundation — Foundation with Floor below Ground level — Forms
for Monolithic Walls without Air Chamber — ^A Simple and Inexpen-
sive Silo Form — ^Method of Raising Forms — ^Using Automatic Clamp
: — Plastered Silos — Concrete Block Silos — Concrete for Silo Work —
Reinforcement of Silo — Doors for the Silo — Silo Roof — Ornamental
Roof or Wall for Silo.
Moulding Concrete Chimneys, Slate and Roof Tiles.
By A. A. Houghton.' 15 illus., 61 pp. (No. 28. New
York, 1911,) IS. 6d. net.
Requisites of Chimney Construction — Constructing Small MonoUthic
Chimneys — Interlocking Block for Small Concrete Chimneys^-Orna-
mental Moulds for Chimneys — Interlocking Blocks for Large Chinmeys
— ^Forms for Large Monolithic Concrete Chimneys — Octagonal
MonoUthic Form — ^Various Types of Concrete Roofs — ^MonoUthic
Type of Concrete Roofs — ^A Simple Bracket for Concrete Roof Con-
struction — ^Moulding Ornamental Concrete Roofs — Concrete Roofs
of Reinforced Slab — Concrete Slate or Tile Roofs — Machine or Mould
for Concrete Slate — ^Moulding Ship, Ridge Roll and Gable Ornaments
— Preparing Plans for Roof Loads.
Moulding and Curing Ornamental Concrete. A Practical
Treatise covering the Various Methods of Preparing the
Moulds and Filling with the Concrete Mixture ; Remedying
Defects in the Casting ; Surface Treatment for various
effects ; proper Proportions and Preparation of the Con-
crete, and the best Methods of thoroughly Curing. By
A. A. Houghton. 5 illus., 58 pp. (No. 29. New
York, 1911.) IS. 6d. net.
Dividing the Moulds — Coating the Moulds to Prevent Shelling —
Placing the Concrete — Removing the Moulds — Repairing Defects in
the Cast — Surface Treatment of Concrete — Curving of the Work —
Moulding Imitation Marble — Imitating the Vein in Marble — ^Moulding
Granite Concrete — Using Silicates as Colouring Agents — ^Mortar
Colours for Concrete — Moulding Concrete to Imitate Tool-dressed
Stone — ^Types of Moulds used for Ornamental Concrete — ^Plaster
Moulds — Glue Moulds — ^Wood and Sheet Metal Moulds — Sand
Moulds for Ornamental Concrete — ^Making Patterns for Cast Iron
Moulds.
Constructing Concrete Porches. The Construction of Mono-
lithic Concrete and Concrete-block Porches, together with
the Modelling of Columns, Balusters, Lattice, and Railings,
as well as Plain and Reinforced T3^s of Porch Floors.
By A. A. Houghton. 18 illus., 62 pp. (No. 35. New
York, 1911.) IS. 6i. net
Concrete for Porch Construction — Foundations for Footing Courses
— Hain Concrete Porches — Pilasters Employed in Wall — Panels for
6 E. & F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 HAYMARKET, LONDON, S.W.
Ornameutiug Walls — Inserting Relief Ornaments in the Wall — In-
serting Separate Moulded Panels in WaH — Concrete Block Porches —
Concrete Porch Floors, Plain, Reiaforced and Mosaic — Concrete
Block Columns — Circular Block Columns, Plain and Fluted — ^Arch
Type of Columnation — Plaster System of Moulding Columns, with-
out Moulds — Concrete Baluster with Moulds — Concrete Lattice
Design with Mould — Concrete Porch Railing and Mould. — ^Index.
Concrete Monuments, Mausoleums, and Burial Vaults.
Construction of Moulds with Simple Methods of Lettering
and Plans and Designs, with complete details of Construc-
tion. By A. A. Houghton, i8 illus., 65 pp, {No. 31.
New York, 1911.) is. 6d. net.
Construction of the Moulds — Panel System of Moulding — Employ-
ing Panels for Ornamental Effects — Ornamenting Die with Incrusta-
tation and Bas — ReUef-designing Details of Concrete Monuments
— Letters for Concrete Monuments — ^Moulding Concrete letters —
Cutting Inscriptions upon Concrete — ^Moulding and Placing Name
Plates- — Imitating the Vein of Natural Stone — ^Treating the Moulds
to Prevent Sticking — Preparing the Concrete for Pouring — Placing
or Setting Concrete Monuments — Constructing Concrete Mausoleums
— ^Moulding a Concrete Columbarium — Moulding Concrete Burial
Vaults.
Concrete Floors and Sidewalks. Complete Instructions for
Moulding with Plain and Ornamental Surfaces. Also Re-
inforced Monolithic Floors and Sidewalks^ and full Details of
Moulds for Diamond, Hexagonal, and Octagonal Floor Tile.
By A. A. Houghton. 8 illus., 63 pp, (No. 32. New
York, 1911.) 15. 6d. net.
Causes of Defective Floors and Walls — Foundations — Constructing
Forms and Thickness of Slabs — ^Materials for good Concrete — ^Pro-
portioning and Mixing, Placing and Tramping the Concrete — Size of
Slabs and Expansion Joints — Placing and Finishing Surface — ^Tools
for Finishing Floors and Walls — Metal Forms for Expansion Joints
-^Machine to Mould Curb and Gutter — How to Prevent Defects in
Work — Curving the Work — Cost of the Work — Ornamental Surfaces
for Floors and Walls — ^Moulds for Mosaic Floor Tile — Materials and
Colours for Surfaces — ^Moulds for Hexagonal Blocks and Tile — Laying
Concrete Floor Tile — Moulding Hollow Concrete Floor Slabs— Inter-
locking Floor Slabs — Adjustable Brace for Shoring — ReinforcecL
Floors and Slabs.
Moulding Concrete Bath Tubs, Aquariums and Natator-
iums. Explaining the Moulding of varions styles of Bath
Tubs, Laundry Trays, etc., with Easily Constructed Moulds,
for the purpose. By A. A. Houghton. 16 illus,i 64 pp.
(No. 33. New York, 1911). is. U. net.
Proportioning and Mixing the Concrete — Construction of the Co re — -
LIST OF S. & C. SERIES
Moulds for Bath Tubs — ^Moulding Rim of^Bath. Tubs — Plaster System
of Moulding Bath Tubs — ^Moulding the Square Style of Bath Tub
— ^Moulding the Legs upon Bath Tubs — Moulding Concrete Lavatories^
Sinks and Closet Bowls — ^Moulding Concrete Laundry Tubs — Mould-
ing a Concrete Aquarium — Design for a Large Concrete Aquarium —
Concrete Aquariums for Outside Use — Moulding a Concrete Nata-
torium — ^Waterproofing Concrete — ^Various Methods of Waterproofing
— Use of Patent Compounds for Waterproofing Concrete.
V
Moulding Concrete Fountains and Lawn Ornaments. The
Methods of Moulding various styles of Concrete Fountains,
Lawn Seats, Curbing, Hitching- Posts, Pergolas, Sun-dials,
Lawn Vases, and other ornamental garden furniture of Con-
crete. By A. A. Houghton. 14 illus., 56 pp. (No,
37, New York, 1912.) is. 6d. net.
Concrete Employed for Lawn Ornaments — Preventing the Concrete
from Adhering to Mould — ^Moulding Concrete Fountains — Construct-
ing an Attractive Base for a Fountain — ^The Plaster System of Mould-
ing Concrete Fountains — ^Moulding Concrete Lawn Benches and
Seats — Moulding Concrete Curbing — Constructing Concrete Pergolas
— Moulding Concrete Sun-dials — Concrete Lawn Vases or Urns —
Moulding Concrete Hitching-Posts — Finishing the Surface of the
Work.
Moulding Concrete Flowers Pots, JBoxes, Jardinieres.
The Construction of various designs of Concrete Flower Pots,
Jardinieres, and Window Boxes of Concrete, together with
the reinforcement and surface treatment of the Casts after
Moulding. By A. A. Houghton. 8 illus., 52 pp. [No.
36. New York, 1912.) is, 6d. net.
Proportioning and Mixing the Concrete for the Work — Construction?
of the Moulds—Construction of the Cores — Plaster and Core Position
Mould — ^Wood and Sheet Metal Moulds — Glue, Sand and Wax Mould*
Reinforcing the Work — Removing the work from the Mould — Fower
Pot Moulds — Flower Boxes of Concrete — Cardboard Models for Orna-
mental Work — Inlaid Ornamentation — Cutting Ornamental Designs
upon Work — Finishing the Surface of your Work.
Concrete Wall Forms. A Practical Treatise on the Construc-
tion of all Types of Wall Forms, Separators and Spacers
for Reinforcement. Full Details and Working Drawings of
an Automatic Wall Clamp are given. Foundations, Retain-
ing Walls, Placing Floor Joints, Moulding Water Tables
and Window Ledges, and Preparation of Foimdations for
Concrete Walls, are also dealt with. By A. A. Houghton.
16 illus., 62 pp.j (No. 30. New York, 1911.) as. 6d. net.
Bracing Wall Forms— Foundations for Walls— Constructing
Footing Courses — Strength and Weight of Concrete — ^Easily made
8 E. & F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 HAYMARKET, iONDON, S W.
Clamps, Wire Ties, and Separators — Use of Metal Forms for Concrete
Walls — Constructing an Automatic Clamp for Wall Forms — Operating
and Adjusting Clamps to all Widths of Wall — ^The Best Method of
Placing Floor Joists — Placing Door and Window Frames and Marking
Wall into Blocks — ^Moulding Window Ledge and Projecting Orna-
ments with Wall — Space for Reinforcement — ^Moulding Concrete
Furring Strips to make Fireproof Wall — An Economical System
of Constructing Walls — Joining Sections of Wall and Bonding Con-
crete with Acids — Retaining Walls.
Concrete Bridges, Culverts and Sewers. Illustrating vari-
ous types of Solid and Reinforced Arch, Slab, and Girder
Concrete Bridges ; also the Molding of Concrete Culverts,
Drains, and Sewers, with Forms for their Construction,
By A. A. Houghton. 14 illus., 58 pp. [No, 34, New
York, 1912.) IS. 6d. net.
The Concrete Bridge — Definitions of parts of an Arch* — ^Definitions
of parts of a Concrete Arch Bridge — Foundations and Specifications
for Concrete Bridges — Concrete Arch Bridges without Spandrel Walls
— Placing Concrete in Bridge Construction- — Piers and Abutments
' — Girder and Slab Bridges — Concrete Bridge Floors — ^Concrete
employed for Bridge Work — Concrete Culverts and Drains — ^Con-
structing Concrete Sewers — -Index.
ELECTRIC BELLS.
Electric Bells, Annunciators and Alarms. By Norman
H. Schneider. Second Edition, 70 illus., 83 pp. (No, 2,
New York, 1913.) is. 6d. net.
Introduction — Different Classes of Cells — Different Forms of
Electric Bells and Pushes — ^Wiring — ^Alarms and Thermostats —
Drop, Annunciators, Call Systems and Wire Systems — Fire Alarms —
Three-wire return Call — ^Burglar and Clock Alarms — Combination
Bell, Door-opener and Telephone Circuits.
ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING.
The Study of Electricity for Beginners. By Norman H.
Schneider. Comprising the Elements of Electricity and
Magnetism as applied to Dynamos, Motors, Wiring, and
to sJl Branches of Electrical Work. 54 illus., 88 pp., 6 tables.
(No. 6. New York, 1910,) is. td, net.
Introduction — Generation of Electricity — Current Flow — Con-
ductors — Insulators — Resistance — Conductivity — Ohms law — ^Vari-
ous, kinds of Cells described — Grouping of Cells — ^Experiments in
Magnetism — ^Lines of Force — ^Electro Magnets — Telegraph and
Tele^one — ^Ampere-turns — ^Whirls around • Wiie — Induction — Im-
pedance — Principle of the Dynamo — Armature and Commutator
— Motors — C.G.S. System — Definitions of Units— Magnetic Pro-
perties and Prefixes used for Units.
LIST OF S. & C. SERIES 9
Practical Electrics. A universal handybook on Everyday
Electrical matters. 126 illus., 135 pp. (No, 13, New
York, 1909.) IS. 6d. net.
Alarms — Batteries — Bells — Connections — Carbons — Coils — Dyna-
mo Electric Machines — Fire Risks — ^Measuring — ^Microphones — ^Motors
— Phonographs — Photophones — Storage — ^Terminals — Telephones.
ELECTRIC GAS LIGHTING.
Electric Gas Lighting. By H. S. Norrie. How to instal
Electric Gas Igniting Apparatus, including the jump spark
and multiple systems, for use in Houses, Churches, Theatres,
Halls, Schools, Stores or any large Building ; also the care
and selection of suitable Batteries, Wiring and Repairs.
57 illus., loi pp. (No. 8. New York, 1907.) is. 6d. net.
Introductory Remarks — ^Multiple Gas Lighting — Connections and
Wiring — Primary Coils and Safety Devices — Lighting of Large
Buildings — How to select Batteries for Gas Lighting.
ELECTRIC LIGHTING.
Low Voltage Electric Lighting, with the Storage Battery.
By Norman H. Schneider. Specially applicable to country
houses, farms, and small settlements, launches, yachts, etc.
23 illus., 85 pp. (No. 26. New York, 1911.) is, 6d. net.
Introduction — ^Advantages of the Isolated Plant — ^The Essential
Parts of the Plant — The Storage Battery — Portable Batteries — ^Why
Primary Batteries are not suitable — Estimating and Installation —
Ampere hour and Lamp hour — How to figure tifie Capacity Needed
— Regulators — Installations for Launches and Yachts — Larger
Installations and 'Specifications — The Electric Plant — Automatic
Devices — ^Motive Power — ^Engines and Windmills — Some Typical
Plants — ^Installation and Operation.
GYROSCOPE.
The Gyroscope. An Experimental Study. By V. E, John-
son, M.A. From Spinning Top to Mono-Rail. 25 illus.,
52 pp. (No. 22. 1911.) IS. 6d. net.
The Simple Gyroscope — ^Experiments — ^Unicycle Gyro — Two-
wheeled G3nro — ^Self-Travelling Unicycle Gyro— Compound Gyroscope
— Balanced Gyrostats — ^The secret of the Mono- Rail — Stilt Gyro-
scope — ^Experiments with a Hoop— Automatic means of hurrjdng on
the Precession — ^Simplest form of Mono-Rail — Stabilising Apparatus —
Turning a Comer — ^Electrically-driven Models — Original form of
Electric Gjrroscope — ^Electric Mono-Rail Model — Electric Source
of Energy — ^The Caur — Lines for Mono-R^l Model — ^Travelling along
a Straight line — Other Methods of Balancing — Non-Gyroscopic
Stabilising Effects.
10 E. A; F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 HAYMARKET, LONDON, S.W
INVENTIONS.
Inventions: How to Protect, Sell and Buy them. By F. B.
Wright. A Practical and Up-to-date Guide for Inventors
and Patentees. io8 pp. (No, 10. New York, 1908.)
IS. 6d. net.
Introduction — ^The Natural Rights of Invention and the Public —
The business of Inventing — ^The Nature of a Patent and Patentability
— -The considerations for which a Patent is granted — Novelty and full
Disclosure — Sole and Joint Invention and Joint Ownership — ^Protec-
tion before Appl3dng for a Patent Caveats — ^The Application for
Patent and its Preparation — Patent Office Procedure — Transfer of
Patent Rights.
PERSPECTIVE.
Linear Perspective. By Charles W. Dymond, F.S.A
A Key to its Theory and Methods. 15 illus., 8 plates, 32 pp.
{No. 20. 1910.) IS. 6d. net.
Preface — Definitions — ^Theory — Examples — ^Appendix ; Directions
for making a Model.
QUANTITIES.
Builders' Quantities. By Horace M. Lewis, Assoc. Inst.
M. and C. Engineers ; M.R.S.I. Illus., 54 pp. (No. 40,
1911.) IS. 6d. net.
Preface — General Introduction — How to Measure Areas, etc. —
Methods of Measurement — Excavator — Sewers and House Drains —
Bricklayer — Reinforced Concrete — ^Mason — Slater — Slate Mason —
Tiler — Stone TiUng and Slating — Plasterer — Carpenter^ — -Joiner and
Ironmonger — Smith and Founder — Hot-water System— Lighting —
Bells — Plumber — Painter, Glazier and Paperhanger — Examples ol
BilUng.
STEAM ENGINE.
A B G of the Steam Engine. By J. P. Lisk, M.E. With
a description of the Automatic Governor. Second Edition.
6 large folding plates, 30 pp. (No. 17. New York, 1910.)
IS. 6d. net.
General Remarks — ^Engine Base — Engine Frame — ^Tangee Frame —
Girder Type— Slide Valve—" D '* Valve— Piston Valve—Crank
Shaft — ^Piston Rods and Valye Stems — Stuffing Box — ^Bearing
Pedestals or Pillow Blocks — Journal Boxes — Flywheel — Diving Belts
— Clearance — Steam Piping — Steam Line — Exhaust Pipe — Steam
Separator — Steam Trap— the Governor — Shaft Governor.
LIST OF S. & C. SERIES It
Model Steam Engine Design. By R. M. de Vignier. An
Introductory Handbook of Practical Information, containing
Formulae, Examples, Tables, and Data for the Model En-
gineer. 34 illus., 94 pp. (No. 9. New York, 1911,) is. 6d,
net.
Various Types — Power Calculations — Feed Pumps — Compound-
Engines — The Valve Diagram — Engine Lay-out — Patterns.
The Corliss Engine. By J. G. Henthorn. And Its Manage-
ment. By C. D. Thurber. 19 illus., 95 pp. [No. 23.
New York, 1904.) is. 6d. net.
Introductory and Historical — Steam Jacketing — Indicator Cards —
The Governor — ^Valve-gear and Eccentric — ^Valve Setting — ^Table
for Laps of Steam Valve — Lubrication, with Diagram for same — Dis-
cussion of the Air Pump and its Management — Care of Main Driving
Gears ; best Lubricator for same — Heating of Mills by Exhaust Steam
Engine Foundations ; Diagrams and Templets for same — ^Materials
for Engine Foundations — Appendix.
The Fireman's Guide. By Karl P. Dahlstrom, M.E. A
Handbook on the Care of Boilers. Twelfth Edition, 26 pp.,
(No. 16. New York, 1909.) is. 6d. net.
Introduction — Firing and Economy of [Fuel — Feed and Water-
Line — Low water and Foaming or Priming — Steam Pressure — Cleans-
ing and Blowing out — General Directions — Summary of Rules.
SOLDERING.
Simple Soldering: Both Hard and Soft. By Edward
Thatcher. Together with descriptions of inexpensive home-
made apparatus necessary for this art. 52 illus., 76 pp. (No.-
18. New York, 1910.) is. 6d. net.
Soldering — Soft Soldering — Methods of Holding Work — ^Hard
Soldering or Brazings — Cleaning up Work; Polishing — Standard
Apparatus — Home-made Apparatus.
TELEPHONY.
Elements of Telephony. By Arthur Crotch. 51 illus.,.
90 pp. (No. 21. 1910.) IS. 6d. net
Introduction' — ^The Telephone-^Telephone Sets — Exchange Work-
• ing — ^Multiple Switchboards — Automatic Signalling— Common Bat-
tery Working-^Junctions — The C.B. Exchange.
12 E. & F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 HAYMARKF.T, LONDON, S.W.
THEATRE.
The Model Vaudeville Theatre. By Norman H. Schneider.
How to Construct and Operate it, 34 illus., 90 pp. {No.
15, New York, 1909.) is. 6d, net.
Construction of a Model Theatre — ^Marionettes — ^Transformation
Plays — ^Methods and Apparatus for Producing Scenic Effects —
Illusions — Illuminated Views — Punch and Judy — Boxing Match —
Black Art— -Magic Lantern Act — ^Machines for Opaque Pictures —
Method of Construction — Different Subjects Exhibited — Con-
clusion.
WIRING.
Wiring Houses for the Electric Light. By Norman H.
Schneider. With special reference to low voltage battery
systems. 42 illus., 86 pp. (No. 25. New York, 1911.)
IS. 6d. net.
Lamp Holders — ^The Circuit Defined — Planning the Wiring —
Completing the Installation — Installing the Lights — Other Methods
of Wiring — Conduit Work — Bringing in the Service through Iroa
Pipe — ^Materials and Notes — Mouldings — Table of Copper Wire— ^
Figuring the Size of Wire Required — ^Notes on Underwriters* Rules —
Opienwork in Dry Places — Concealed Knob and Tube Work — Service
Wires.
Electric Circuits and Diagrams. By Norman H. Schneider.
In two volumes.
Vol. I. 217 illus., 72 pp. (No. 3. New York, 1911.)
IS. f>d. net. Wiring Circuits and Diagrams of the foDow-
mg :—
Bells ; Annunciators ; Alarms — Telephones — ^Automobiles — ^Wiring
and Simple Circuits — Gas Lighting by Electricity — Dynamo Circuits —
Electrical Instruments — ^Motors — Street Railway — Storage Battery
— ^Testing — Telegraph — ^Wireless Telegraphy
Vol. IL 78 illus., 80 pp. (No. 4. New York, 1911.)
IS. 6d. net. Wiring Circuits and Diagrams of the follow-
ing:—
Alternating Current Generators — General Diagram of an Induction
Generator — Synchronizers — Diagrams of Switchboard Instruments
— ^Diagrams with Transformers — Booster Transformers — Single place
Motors — Reversing A.C. Motors — Series D.C. Arc Circuits— -Switch
Control of Lamps — ^Emergency Switch S3rstem — Storage Battery
Diagrams— D.C. Motor Starters — ^Motor Speed Control—Solenoid
MoTOr Starters — ^Three-wire Generators — Switchboard and Con-
nectk)ns — A.C. Motors and Starters — Outdoor Lighting.
LIST OF S. & C. SERIES 13
WIRELESS TELEPHONY.
Wireless Telephone Construction. By Newton Harrison,
E.E. A comprehensive explanation of the making of a
Wireless Telephone Equipment. Transmitting and Receiv-
ing Stations fully explained, with details of construction
sufficient to give an intelligent reader a good start in building
a Wireless Telephone System and in operating it. 43 illus.,
74 pp. (No. 12. New York, 1909.) is. 6d. net.
What is Wireless Telephony ? — Ether Waves are Silent — ^Waves
considered in various ways — Finding Length of an Ether Wave —
Frequency and Radiation — Transmitting and Receiving Stations —
Supplying the Arc Current from a Battery — Battery Maintenance —
Arcs — Radiation — Current and Volts required by the Arc producing
the Waves — High Voltages — ^Transformer — Cells for High Tension
Power — Ruhmer Transmission System — Auto Coherers — ^Wave
Detectors — Coils — ^Transmitting Apparatus — ^Testing — ^Microphones
— Aerials — ^Earth Waves — Receiving Circuit — Detectors — Resonance
Tube.
WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY.
Making Wireless Outfits. By Newton Harrison, E.E.
A concise and simple explanation of the construction and
use of an inexpensive Wireless Equipment for sending and
receiving up to 100 miles, giving full details and illustrations.
27 illus., 61 pp. (No. 11. New York, 1909.) is. 6d. net.
Waves, Antennae and Aerials. What the Relay is for — ^Making the
Relay and Sounder — Marconi's Coherer — ^The Transmitter — Spark
Coils— Vibrator — Condenser — Effect of daylight on Electric Waves —
Connection of Antennae to Stations — Metal Towers — Ground Con-
nections — Use of Gas Pipes for Ground — Tuning Circuits — Power
required for long-distance Wireless Telegraphy — Dimensions of Coils
for Sparks of different lengths — Telegraphic Codes — ^Morse Code —
Continental Code- — Earth Connections in the Country — ^Tables — •
Heights of Antennae with Distances between Stations — Brass Knobs
8/10 inches in diameter — Dimensions for different Spark Lengths.
Wireless Telegraphy for Intending Operators. By G.
K.P.Eden, B.Sc, etc. 16 illus., 80 pp. [No. 24, 1913.)
IS. 6d. net.
Detectors — ^Transmitters — Tuning Apparatus — Wireless Station.
Equipment — ^Aerials and Earths — Small Power Experimental Appara-^
tus.
Plans and Specifications for Wireless Telegraph Sets,.
Part I. By Frederick Collins. Complete and detailed
14 E. & F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 HAYMARKET, LONDON, S.W.
instructions for making an Experimental Set, also a One to
Five Mile Set. 37 illus., 47 pp. (No, 41. New York, 1912. )
15. 6d. net.
An Experimental Transmitter — The Induction Coil — The Key — To
Adjust the Transmitter — Experimental Receptors — The Relay — To
Wire the Receptor — The Microphone Detector — ^A One to Five Mile
Transmitter — Binding Posts — The Condenser — ^the Aerial and Ground
Wire — ^A One to Five Mile Coherer Receptor — The Coherer — ^The
Standards — The Relay — ^The Sounder — A One to Five Mile Auto-
Receptor.
Plans and Specifications for Wireless Telegraph Sets.
By A. F. Collins. Compliete and detailed data for construct-
ing a Five to Ten Mile Set ; also a Ten to Twenty-five Mile
Set. 63 illus., 72 pp. [No. 42. New York, 1912.) is. 6d. net.
A five to ten mile tuned Transmitter — ^The Adjustable Spark
Gap — a Simple Tuning Coil — The Completed Transmitter — a Five
to Ten Mile Tuned Coherer Receptor — The Apparatus — ^The Con-
denser — The Completed Receptor — A Five to Ten mile Tuned Auto-
Detector Receptor — The Wiring Diagram — ^The Aerial — A Ten to
Twenty-five Mile tuned Transmitter — ^Wiring Diagram of Low Voltage
Circuits — -from Ten to Twenty-five Mile Transmitter — A Motor
Generator Set — A Ten to Twenty-five Mile Tuned Coherer Receptor —
Choke Coil — The Completed Receptor — A Ten to Twenty-fiye Mile
Auto-Detector Receptor— Telephone Receivers.
y
LIST OF S. <fe C. SERIES 16
THE S. & C. SERIES
Uniform, in cloth, Price Is. 6d. net each.
No. Page
1. Modern Primary Batteries -4
2. How to Install Electric Bells, Annunciators and
Alarms 8
3. Electrical Circuits and Diagrams, Part I. .12
4. Electrical Circuits and Diagrams, Part II. .12
5. Experimenting with Induction Coils 4
6 The Study of Electricity for Beginners 8
7. Dry Batteries, how to make and Use them . 3
8. Electric Gas Lighting 9
9. Model Steam Engine Design .11
10. Inventions, how to Protect, Sell and Buy them 10
11. Making Wireless Outfits 13
12. ^ Wireless Telephone Construction -13
13. Practical Electrics ; a Universal Handy Book on
Everyday Electrical Matters -9
14. How to Build a 20-footBi -plane Glider 3
15. The Model Vaudeville Theatre . .12
16. The Fireman's Guide ; a Handbook on the Care
of Boilers .11
17. A.B.C. of the Steam Engine, with a Description
of the Automatic Governor. .10
18. Simple Soldering, both Hard and Soft .11
19. Ignition Accumulators, their Care and Manage-
ment ........ 3
20. Key to Linear Perspective .10
21. Elements of Telephony 11
22. E^erimental Study of the Gyroscope . 9
E. ^ F. N. SPON, Ltd?, 57 HAYMARKET, LONDON, S.W.
THE S. 6 C. SERIES
Umform, in d6th, Price Is. 6d. net each.
No, Page
23. The Corliss Engine .11
24. Wireless Telegraphy for Intending Operators 13
25. Wiring Houses for the Electric Light .12
26. Low Voltage Electric Lighting with the Storage
Battery ....... 9
27. Practical Silo Construction in Concrete . 4
28. Moulding Concrete Chimneys, Slate and Roof
X lies ...... ..^
29. Moulding and Curing Ornamental Concrete ^ . 5
30. Concrete Wall Forms 7
31. Concrete Monuments, Mausoleums and Burial
Vaults . . . 6
32. Concrete Floors and Sidewalks ... 6
33. Moulding Concrete Bath Tubs, Aquariums and
Natatoriums ...... 6
34. Concrete Bridges, Culverts and Sewers . &
35. Constructing Concrete Porches ... 5
36. Moulding Concrete Fountains and Lawn Orna-
ments ........
37. Moulding Concrete Flower Boxes,, Jardinieres^
d.v». . • , * . .. . .
39. Natural Stability and the Parachute Principle
in Aeroplanes ......
40. Builders* Quantities
41. Plans and Specifications for Wireless Telegraph
Sets, Part I
42 . Plans and Specifications for Wireless Telegraph
Sets, Part II
43. Cycle Building and Repairing ....
E. 6 F. N. SPON. Ltd.. LONDON*
Printed by Butler & Tanner, Frome and London.
7
7
3
10
13
14
AiaaibbMAQt
Date Due
B89089664809A
Demco 293-6
